along and deposited
in your air tools or horns and whistles. You want water in your prized M5?
I don’t think so!
But
a far more important consideration is internal receiver rusting, where you
can’t even see it. No matter that the outside of the receiver sports
a nice, shiny coat of paint. Who cares about that? You need to be interested
in what’s happening inside the receiver. All air receivers have inspection
ports big enough to let you at least look inside and see what’s going
on. Bigger industrial receivers have manhole plates that you can remove
so that you may actually climb inside the receiver to look around. Propane
and refrigerant cylinders don’t have inspection ports. Propane and
refrigerant gases have been dried and contain virtually no water vapor.
But air tanks take hot, moist air from a compressor and store it, and moisture
and internal corrosion are very important considerations. (Be sure that
all pressure is relieved from a receiver before removing an inspection plug!)
To
be safe, you need to use a real air receiver for compressed air duty. It’s
designed with all of these considerations in mind. To be really safe, it
should have the ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) seal. [Illustrated
at the end of this article.] ed.
This
will be stamped into either the tank itself, or on the manufacturer’s
label which typically is welded to the receiver, and also states the year
it was made, what its maximum allowable working pressure is, the temperature
rating, the maker’s name and location, and a serial number at the
very least. If you don’t see these indications or the seal, you should
not even consider using it.
Another
thing is presence of inspection ports on a typical 60, 80, 100, 120 gallon
receiver or manhole(s) on a big industrial receiver. I have heard of manhole
plates and inspection ports being welded in place to avoid leaks. This is
extremely dangerous. If the manhole plate or plug is welded in place, how
are you supposed to see what’s going on inside? They are there to
help you. A good gasket for a manhole plate or pipe thread sealant around
a plug is the way to take care of a minor leak, not welding them in place.
This
also brings up another crucial point. Welding on an air tank. Sometimes
you need to add an extra fitting. This should be done by certified welders
who are familiar with all of the considerations involved and who can do
a hydrostatic test on the receiver after the welding has been completed.
One of the most important considerations of welding on receivers is to inert
them before welding. Welding heat can vaporize oil inside a receiver and
make the atmosphere in the receiver potentially explosive. It’s pretty
safe to say that most piston type (reciprocating) air compressors discharge
a little of their lubricating oil along with the air and moisture that they
send to the receiver.
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Welding
on tanks involves evacuating the air and maintaining a flow of some inert
gas such as CO2 or Nitrogen in the tank to prevent an explosion. Hydrostatic
testing involves filling the receiver completely with liquid and then pressurizing
it to (typically) double its design pressure. Since liquids are incompressible,
if the tank should rupture or if a weld fails, there is no explosion, just
a sudden leak and an instant drop of the pressure. Explosions result when
compressible gasses are in the vessel because they expand rapidly upon a sudden
release of pressure and turn a rupturing vessel into high-velocity shrapnel.
Realize
that if you have a pressure of 100 PSI in your air tank, then there is a pressure
of 100 pounds on every square inch of surface of that tank. Add up all those
hundreds of square inches of surface area that your receiver represents, and
you’ll see that the force that is trying to rip that tank apart amounts
to many tons altogether. This is why it’s so important to use the right
kind of a tank and to check it regularly and carefully.
Sometimes
it’s a nuisance to get to a drain valve on the bottom of a receiver,
but drain it at least once a day regardless. Put in an automatic drain valve
if necessary and make sure that it always works. Drain even more than once
per day if you use the compressor a lot or if the weather is damp and the
air has high humidity to begin with. You’ll be amazed at how much water
you’ll get.
Another
reason to drain the receiver regularly is that if you allow it to fill with
water, you will reduce its air storage capacity. If you have a 60 gallon receiver
that has 30 gallons of accumulated water stored in it, then you really only
have a 30 gallon receiver. And, every time when you draw air from this receiver,
you can be sure that you’ll be getting lots of water vapor carried along
as well which will ruin your pneumatic tools and may also damage many different
types of horns that are not rated for operation on steam as well as air.
If
you have access to the Internet, you can look up the ASME and find out exactly
what their requirements are for certified air receivers. Be aware also that
in many states, uncertified air receivers are illegal. We of Horn & Whistle
hope that you will both read and heed this article. If you are using a non-certified
vessel, or one in which you can’t remove the inspection plugs or manholes,
stop using it and get the right type of vessel for the job you are doing.
It will be a lot less expensive than a possible explosion. Air receivers when
pressurized are potential bombs. A 60 gallon tank holding 150 PSI will cause
major property damage to your home if it explodes and if you are standing
or working near it, well, you won’t even know what happened. Save those
propane and refrigerant cylinders for the applications for which they are
made. Make sure you drain your air receiver regularly. Remove the inspection
ports and look inside annually at least. Safety First! |